This is desert island food for me. As in, if I were stuck on a desert island and could only have one thing to eat, this would seriously be it. The recipe is adapted from the cookbook from the world-famous, but currently-defunct, NYC restaurant Tavern on the Green.
This is technically a kind of ceviche, as the salmon is cured by the acid from the vegetable-lime juice mixture. The "pastrami" part of it is the peppery crust you build on top with layers of molasses and coarsely crushed spices. It's a process that takes days to finish, but is
so worth it. You can freeze it at just about any point once the curing is done: you can freeze the cured, uncrusted fish and apply the spice crust later, you can apply the spices and freeze it whole, or you can freeze it sliced.
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Which piece to use |
You'll need a fairly large piece of salmon (fussing with pre-cut "fillets" makes slicing it later a pain in the patoot). You can do a whole side of salmon, but that does make a LOT of pastrami. If you want to use a smaller piece, I suggest cutting (or have the guy at the fish counter do this) the piece outlined on the picture at right. The "tail" piece behind it is too thin to slice nicely, and the rest of the fillet ahead of it tends to be wider than a standard knife, which makes carving the finished pastrami difficult.
It's also best to use fish that's not been previously frozen. Fish, like fruit, is very delicate at the cellular level and a freeze-thaw cycle makes the flesh mushy. When you carve the finished pastrami, the firmer it is the better.
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How to slice finished pastrami |
It's hard to write instructions for proper slicing of the finished pastrami (at least for me it is). You want to slice thin slices on the diagonal, kind of like cutting a beef brisket, without cutting through the salmon skin. Use a knife that's at least 2" wider than the fish. Hold the knife parallel to the front edge of the fish and angle it diagonally in the vertical plane (like a forward slash if you're looking at it from the side, and you're right-handed). Saw the knife gently toward the skin following the diagonal line, and then lift at the last millimeter to cut the flesh away from the skin. This --> picture illustrates the angle of the cut pretty well.
And then there's serving the finished pastrami. You can put a single slice on a cracker with a pinch of sour cream for an appetizer, or serve it rolled in a flatbread with capers, blanched onions and sour cream (my favorite) or put it on rye toast for a faux Reuben. You can put a little or a lot of work into preparing the extras for a salmon pastrami sandwich, so I'll have a separate post regarding my preferred
condiments.
And now...the recipe:
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